Rick Owens' Spring 2013 "Island" collection saw the inclusion of familiar Rick favorites but also brought with it a freshness that hinted at the designer moving into lighter and more youthful territory. Owens once again presented his polarizing take on menswear - love it or loathe it - but who could really choose the latter when it came to super-slick black jackets paired down with similarly sharp trousers? This traditional silhouette mingled with others of a more androgynous nature, each one as individual as the last, but each clearly belonging to what was a seamless collective - a league of fashion assassins. Owens' infatuation with lines was apparent in his outerwear, which was an exercise in geometry; line and pattern conspiring to create perhaps the most memorable pieces in the collection.

Jack Smylie