Phillip Lim put the cool in karate for his Spring runway collection which was built around a culture clash of Japanese and Brazilian traditions; what Lim calls "Nipo-Brazilerio sub-cultures". Mixed Martial Arts (MMA) was clearly a strong influence for the collection which saw relaxed-yet-sharp silhouettes stroll down the runway. Of course, these pieces still maintained Lim's precision and attention to detail; the smarter trousers, in particular, were of an immaculate fit. Things loosened up a bit on top with shirts and jumpers worn (draped) casually askew. Prints were of an occulent nature - completing what Lim saw as the journey of his influencers: "It's born from make-do and the ghettos… You're born from nothing, and you use clothes to get somewhere." You have to hand it to Phillip Lim - it's a strong casual collection overall, but it's the smarter looks that hold it together.

Jack Smylie