Whatever Dries Van Noten does, he does it well - and this season it was camouflage. Adding to the ranks of designers who have used the pattern in recent collections, Van Noten paired it up with sharp midnight blue suits and down with silky white padded vests and shirts. The camo in question was a digitized version of the print and came down the runway in green, orange and blue variations. One might think it would induce a pattern-overload when paired with checks, but in actual fact the opposite occurred - it was actually rather calming. The whole collection, for that matter, was cool and collected - put together with effortless charm that belies Van Noten's serious SERIOUS dedication to his craft. The presentation moved through a rainbow of muted colours - and a dash of vibrance splashed across knits - though the stand out tone was the warm orange that adorned jackets and pants and accented outerwear. It's a collection with depth and volume, colour, form and texture. And camouflage.

Jack Smylie